1. Layer Cakes—Famous sweet-tooths, British and London-based designers turned out collections of crafty, confectionery looks including profiterole evening wear by Nathan Jenden, pure candy from Giles, layers of ruffled icing from Christopher Kane and tiers of both stiff and supple pleating from Modernist, Erdem, and Richard Nicoll. From left: Christopher Kane, Nathan Jenden, Richard Nicoll, Erdem.2. Fruit Cup—Looks like those sherbet tones smuggled aboard our plane as the same blush pinks, opal blue, melon, and fuchsia cleared customs and met us on the runways at Louise Goldin's phenomenal display of virtuoso knit design and colorful shows by Aquascutum, Erdem and the always playful Jenden. From left: Erdem, Nathan Jenden, Louise Goldin, Aquascutum.
4. Jacket Policy—From unstructured blazers to the alluring three-piece suits, workaholic New York designers spent a great deal of time and yardage providing the quiet strength and precise tailoring of formal menswear to women's lines. Continuing the trend, Todd Lynn, Jens Laugensen, and Paul Smith Women, all experts in the code of Saville Row, continued the trend with matched jackets and skirts, relaxed blazers, evening-appropriate trousers and slick, sexy tux tops. From left: Todd Lyn, Jens Laugensen, Jens Laugensen, Todd Lyn.
5. Quilting Bee—Ethic prints, batiks, and Native-American motifs have been seeing creeping into a lot of collections on both sides of the Atlantic in resent seasons. Leave it to London and pacesetters like Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab to move a back-burner trend to center stage with extremely bold print choices and tribal-inspired quilting effects. From left: Christopher Kane, Christopher Kane, Marios Schwab, Marios Schwab.6. Killer Queen—Bordering on costume, a number of our faves presented varied takes on underground princesses including Erdem's diaphanous chiffon gown with a punky cropped vest, Jenden's full-skirted number with a striped blazer and black baseball cap or Giles' shredded scrap gown with Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die studding. From left: Nathan Jenden, Erdem, Erdem, Giles.
7. Optic Fiber—With enough frenetic op-art to make Bridget Riley dizzy, designers like Matthew Williamson, Eley Kishimoto, and the precious Kane used these boldly graphic abstract and nature-inspired prints to make themselves heard over the competing volume of Native-American and ethnic-batik prints. From left: Matthew Williamson, Eley Kishimoto, Matthew Williamson, Eley Kishimoto.